Lowering your second is a lot easier: the hole takes a carabiner easier than the ATC, and it requires less leverage to release, meaning you have more control over lowering, and less likely to drop your partner. Guide plates have traditionally been difficult to operate when lowering seconds. DMM Pivot Belay Package. Learn more about Mike at LunchboxJackson.com. With a thin-enough rope the weighted climber-side of the rope can slip to the side of the brake-end and get pinched in the rope channel; with a simple 180-degree twist of the carabiner, the assisted brake will release—not good. In real-time scenarios and improvised testing stations at my local climbing gym, in the field, and at my home, I tested the efficiency and ease of releasing the various assisted braking systems. Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. Rope-pinch happens relatively often when a seconding climber falls and abruptly pulls his/her rope into the V-Shaped groove to the side of the brake-end of the rope. Description of DMM Pivot Belay Device Red. Standing out from the crowd due to the unique pivoting anchor point connection, the DMM Pivot prevents rope jamming and … There's a problem loading this menu right now. I practiced releasing the brake using carabiners, nut tools, and redirected slings with one and two climbers at a time, and lowering climbers full pitch lengths. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. The GiGi … Great product. Perfect for alpine, winter and multi-pitch trad climbs.5031290208703 My experience totally agrees with yours. Weight: 6.1 oz. Top subscription boxes – right to your door, See all details for DMM Pivot Belay Device, © 1996-2020, Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. I had been using and loving the Petzl Reverso until the Pivot appeared. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. Enjoy Free Shipping during the holidays! The Pivot is well-designed, highly functional, and has become my go-to device. Petzl GriGri. Top notch products, great customer service, and perhaps best of all, enormous attention to detail and quality. The GiGi is a major struggle to release, and then it lets go all at once. BUY DMM Pivot Belay Device and Rhino Set. Top quality, great selection and expert advice. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. Future I believe there is still room for improvement in dual mode devices. The Pivot clearly advances the state of the art of one of the most valuable guiding tools ever. It may be necessary to use a backup on the brake-side of the rope to ensure control. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DMM The Pivot - at Amazon.com. These are the products we considered that ultimately didn't make our top 5. The megaJul is way more versatile and has the "autoblock" feature. Shop for DMM at REI. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. The DMM Belay Master 2 is one of six belay-specific lockers that we've tested. Reviews It is almost boring to say, but I can t really think of anything about the DMM Pivot that I don t like. Other examples of this type of belay device include the Petzl Reverso 4, Black Diamond ATC Guide, Cassin Piu 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, Kong Gigi, Mammut Smart, Mammut Bionic Alpine Belay, and the CAMP Ovo. BEST USE: SPORT, … Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. When weighted, the climber's end pinches the brake-end and keeps the climber from falling. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. Accepting ropes 7.5mm – 11mm it’s tied for the widest rope range of all the guide-mode tubular devices (same as Petzl’s Reverso 4 and Simond’s Tucan 2).DMM does add that the Pivot is optimized for ropes 8mm – 10.5mm, which is a nice way of saying ropes larger than 10.5mm may need to be squished into the device and they won’t feed quite as smoothly. I specifically choose the Pivot when I am belaying from above using ropes less than 9.2mm in diameter, and when I know rappels will be part of the descent. With all of that said, rope pinch-and-twist can happen with surprising ease on the ATC Guide and the flat plaquettes compared to the Pivot, simply due to the difference in the width of the channels. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. Some devices simply locked up and did not lower at all. Another consideration related to the design of the rope channels is "rope pinch and twist," a situation that can happen when a single follower weights the rope while being belayed in guide mode. Mike Lewis demonstrates how to lower a climber while in "guide mode" with the DMM Pivot: The belayer can set up a sling to pull back the carabiner on the rope and release the friction on the brake-end of the rope, allowing it to slide through the device while maintaining control with the brake hand. It's an improvement over a tried a true device that should see more popularity. I love DMM for a number of reasons. The Rhino might be a great krab, but I wouldn’t worry too much about not having one if you do pick the Pivot. This is the whole point of the pivot feature and it works very well. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. However, I've been encouraging climbers who plan to use it in guide mode to give it a try. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering. Releasing the brake using leverage with a nut tool (multiple sizes of nut tools worked, which is not true for all devices on the market), a carabiner, or redirected sling required noticeably less bicep effort and manipulation than other devices. Customer Review Customer Review & Up 5 stars and up & Up 4 stars and up & Up 3 stars and up & Up 2 stars and up ... DMM Pivot Belay Package. Mike Lewis guides Anthill Direct (5.9-) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, using the DMM Pivot belay device [Photo] Peter Braam, Pros: Highly recommend, Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2016. The ropes run upward a bit easier than any of the devices except the Kong GiGi, but it doesn't have the worry about the rope twisting around and releasing itself that requires a special effort when the GiGi is used with a single second. Nice review! Get FREE SHIPPING with $50 minimum purchase. The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. This page works best with JavaScript. The pivot only affects lowering in guide mode. The Pivot is a really nice piece of gear DMM has made. The BestReviews editorial team researches hundreds of products based on consumer reviews, brand quality, and value. Providing smooth rope control and a secure and confident catch, the Pivot Belay Device from DMM is a revolutionary device which uses a pivot solution to ensure rope release with less force and gain greater control when lowering. During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top-belaying multiple climbers at a time on multipitch rock and alpine climbs, rappelling, and rock rescue practice. Shop the latest DMM Climb at Backcountry.com. That means tie off the rope with a munter and be sure to tie off the second that you don't want to lower in case have two seconds and you end up lowering both. Lowering was very easy and smooth. In the modern climbing era it's become regular practice on multipitch routes to belay from above with a belay device that has an assisted-braking function. Style: Brake Assist. I have found that the Pivot works OK even with the 7.2 mm Ice Floss, though it is slightly thinner than the Pivot's recommended lower range of 7.3 mm diameter. Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. The design of the Pivot's rope channels (the two holes where a bight of rope goes through) is similar to the Petzl Reverso 4 and quite different from the Black Diamond ATC Guide. However, if said fallen climber wants to be lowered, the belayer will initiate a release of the brake by levering the device with a carabiner, nut tool or a redirected sling. Shop DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set + Free Shipping over $49. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Mike has been guiding and instructing for 23 years throughout the U.S. and internationally. The DMM Pivot is a uniquely functional belay device that offers guide mode belaying options and is compatible with a wide range of climbing ropes.. Edited to add: Rappelling and belaying in non guide mode is the same as with other tube style belay devices. Once the seconding climber begins climbing again after a fall, the belayer simply pulls (sometimes hard) the pinched rope out from the V-shaped groove and all is well. Find great deals on premium clothing and gear from DMM. Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2018. I first saw these while climbing in the UK and wow, I am bummed I bought a BD Belay before buying this. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. Select Your Cookie Preferences. Black Diamond Vision MIPS Helmet: Head protection that's as light and effective as ever, Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ion sunglasses: High quality with a big, bold style, Scarpa Ribelle HD: Boots that can keep up in the mountains, The Beal Opera: An 8.5mm rope that is as strong and waterproof as it is light. On today's Gear Show we were lucky enough to have a DMM expert to talk to. We then choose a shorter list for in-depth research and testing before finalizing our top picks. Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. Reviewed in the United States on August 16, 2019. Overall, I found the Pivot to be a solid piece of equipment, and until a plaquette style belay/rappel device comes out that is light, requires little effort to belay in guide mode, belays both thin and thick ropes well, releases from an assisted brake with ease, and belays and rappels smoothly, the DMM Pivot will stand as a gold-standard item. The Pivot has become a regular tool in my guiding and climbing.